Hi again guys. As from my previous posts I have a couple of Preludes (88 and 89) that I race here on Vancouver Island BC Canada. It's going good, I'm having a great time. A few weeks ago I was hit on the left rear where my wheel was kicked in 10 degrees. After inspection I found out the rear cross member was rusted to the point of fatigue- rusted through. Well I am slowly disassembling the parts car for the cross member and my question is is there anyone out there with any experiance replacing this part? The parts car is in good shape but with all the years the bushings are seized to the bolts so getting them out is difficult.
Any tricks I can use or any pitfalls I can avoid when getting this part out.
Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to any responces
Trev
Campbell River BC Canada
1989 Prelude rear cross member replacement
Moderators: RedRacer, spiffyguido
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- Lude Dude
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- spiffyguido
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- Prelude Model: 1991 SE-SR
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Re: 1989 Prelude rear cross member replacement
I just want to clarify that you are referring to the structural member that bolts to the underside of the trunk and carries the control arms. Is that what you mean?
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- Lude Dude
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:08 pm
Re: 1989 Prelude rear cross member replacement
Hi spiffyguido, yes you're right. do you know the proper name for it. maybe the wishbone? Well today I have it out by taking out all of the componants like the shocks ect. Now I have to do the race car and it is rusty. oh no. After I get it installed I will need to align it I would think? Any thoughts?
Thanks for your time and the site.
Trev
Thanks for your time and the site.
Trev
- spiffyguido
- Moderator
- Posts: 2196
- Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 2:55 am
- Prelude Model: 1991 SE-SR
- Location: Alberta, Canada
- Contact:
Re: 1989 Prelude rear cross member replacement
Hey Trev,
I've taken one of those off before. The bolts on the structural member were the hardest part of removing it. I remember I had to use a large breaker bar and an impact wrench to knock them out. Otherwise, taking it off was straightforward.
Once you put everything back together an alignment will probably be in order. The last thing you want on a the track is a rear wheel toed out funny or something of that nature.
I've taken one of those off before. The bolts on the structural member were the hardest part of removing it. I remember I had to use a large breaker bar and an impact wrench to knock them out. Otherwise, taking it off was straightforward.
Once you put everything back together an alignment will probably be in order. The last thing you want on a the track is a rear wheel toed out funny or something of that nature.