pulley replacement

[Bubba]

I'm having trouble locating the TDC mark on the flywheel. Page 5-26 indicates a pointer on the cranckcase with a TDC mark painted white. Any additional help in locating this mark is greatly appreciated.

[spiffyguido]

I assume that you've found the viewing port, and to clarify, my instructions pertain to a manual transmission, which I believe you said you had.

If you look in the viewing port and watch the side of the flywheel (right next to the cogs) you will see one place on the flywheel that has some tick marks on it. The manual says that it is painted white, but any I've seen have had the paint worn off and all you can see is the tick mark indent. It'll be easier to find if you have someone rotate the engine by hand as you watch as the viewing window doesn't allow you to see very much of the flywheel. Rotate the engine until you see the marks, and then line them up with the alignment marker (Looks like a small metal point) on the transmission housing. When this is lined up, the pistons are at TDC and you can proceed with aligning the camshafts. Only put the belt on AFTER you've aligned the engine to TDC and have aligned the cams.

[Bubba]

I've got the old belt removed and the new one on but I'm not sure of the alignment. Page 5-26 of the manual indicates a TDC mark (painted white) and pointer on the crankcase. I haven't been able to locate the TDC mark. I have found the UP marks on the cam shafts and the alignment marks on the pulleys but I need some guidance with locating the TDC mark. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Bubba]

Missed your last reply. No I haven't found the viewing port and yes I have manual transmission.

[spiffyguido]

The viewing port is right where the transmission housing meets the engine block on the front of the engine. If it hasn't been lost, the port is covered by a black rubber plug about 1.5 inches long and 0.5 inches wide with a knob for a handle. It's immediately above the engine stamp where the engine's type and serial number is indicated. When you look inside, you'll see the flywheel and by rotating the crankshaft you will be able to see the tick marks. Again, you'll want to avoid rotating the engine with the belt on until you have aligned things. Thus, if you already have placed your belt on, you will want to slip it off the cam belts while you rotate the engine to TDC.

[Bubba]

Found it! I was looking under the engine. Will try tomorrow to get things aligned. As you mentioned I will have to remove the belt. Sincerely appreciate comments. Thanks

[Bubba]

Have timing belt installed and tensioner adjusted. Tried out on road and seems to run ok except for engine idling - surges between about 250 - 1200 rmp. Not sure what that indicates. Hopefully a minor adjustment. Any comments would be appreciated.

[spiffyguido]

Did you set the timing using a timing light? It may be off a little bit with the new belt.

[Bubba]

I will need some assistance with the timing. Obviously I have never had to do any timing so some guidance is needed. Page 5-18 shows a rubber cap (yellow on my car). Do I need to jumper the brown wire to the Green/white wire after the car has warmed up or can I jumper it and then start the car? I have an old timing light but I'm not sure where to connect it. The photo on page 5-18 seems to imply that it is connected in-line on the last spark plug but there doesn't seem to be a way to do this so where is it best to connect the timing light. Appreciate your patience on this project.

[spiffyguido]

What does your timing light look like? Usually they have a clamp that fits over top of the plug wire. Do you have something like that?

I believe you jumper the wires under the yellow cap (it's yellow on my car too) before you start the engine.

[Bubba]

My timing light is a Suntune CP 7520. It is probably 25+ yrs old and I don't think it's ever been used. It has connector (about 4 inches long) that goes directly on to the spark pug and the other end connects to the spark plug wire. I will probably need to get a different timing light.

[spiffyguido]

Did a quick search about that timing light. It sounds like you'd have a hard time using it on your car because of the spark pillar that goes into the head to connect to the spark plug. It looks like your timing light requires you to get a lead on the plug WIRE itself, which at either end would be tricky without laying wast to the rubber boots on the plug wires. Best case you could do it at the distributor, but I'd be cautious not to damage the wire.

I've always used an inductive timing light. They're far easier to use because you just hook them up the battery, then hook the camp to plug wire #1. Easy as can be.

Something like this:

Equus 3551 Xenon Inductive Timing Light

[Bubba]

Thanks for the info on timing lights. If I can't borrow one from a neighbor, I buy an inductive one.

[Bubba]

Well, I haven't been successful with getting the engine timed properly. It still idles between 250 - about 700 rpms and just idles rough - surging back and forth almost stalling. I wasnt able to get the timing right by rotating the distributor in either direction but with the idle surging it was difficult to see the timing marks.It did not appear that the timing marks were adjustable to the indicator on the flywheel by advancing or retarding the distributor. I am now suspecting that maybe one of the cams may be off by one tooth. Is that possible and the car still run well above idle - ran on interstate at 70 with no apparent problems. Getting frustrated and am considering going to the dealer. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

[spiffyguido]

The timing marks are hard to see because the flywheel moves very fast. Were you able to get a timing light and did you place the inductive clamp on the right spark plug wire?

If a cam is off by one tooth, you might still be able to see the timing mark, but it will be off center. An engine will still run in this case, but it may cause other problems.

Were you having any problems with your idle before changing the belt?

Also, did you end up changing the water pump anyway (I know you said you had recently had it done)? If so, you'll need to bleed the coolant lines because they feed the IAC valve which would certainly cause idle fluctuation if it wasn't getting coolant circulated through it.